The Valnerina (Nerina Valley), one of the most appealing and less known parts of Umbria, takes its name from the river that flows through the valley and deep canyons- the Nera. The river springs from the heart of the Umbrian-Marche Apennine mountains and falls into the Tiber River 116 kilometers away, uncommonly impetuous and powerful. It’s not only by chance that it is considered the seventh river in Italy for its medium-river capacity. It is precisely due to its particular impetuosity that over thousands of years it has cut through the countryside sculpting and shaping a characteristic landscape that, despite the dense presence of humans, at times still seems wild and uninhabited. The skylines of the Valnerina are harsh and jagged and the deep valleys here and there reveal their calcareous origins; these valleys lie mostly in the shade of the mountains during the day and in summer. It’s a totally different scenario from the sunny rolling hills of Umbria for which the region is more commonly known. The Valnerina Valley is rather wide and runs through the entire southeast part of the region from the town of Preci down to the Terni area to the south and Norcia and Cascia to the east.
The Nera River Park is in the valley and covers the halfway to lower part of the river from the town of Ferentillo all the way to Terni, where the river joins the Velino River. The Velino literally gushes into the Nera at a difference of altitude of 165 meters, creating one of the most beautiful hydrological phenomena in Italy –the Cascate delle Marmore waterfalls. Along the river inside the park are the small towns of Arrone and Montefranco, then the park turns east and away from the river passing the tiny village of Polino – population 230. The park includes Lago di Piediluco, second largest regional lake in a beautiful landscape.
A landscape so charming and particular that at first might seem uninhabited, has, however, been settled by humans since ancient times. There was everything man could need in
Valnerina – water, wood and a high altitude from which he could dominate the valley. Throughout the area you can find fortresses, castles, monasteries and watch towers that testify to the economic wealth this territory experienced that one wouldn’t expect from its geographically isolated position. Although it was a crossroad, the Valnerina Valley, because of its physical aspects, has always been difficult to reach for commercial purposes and in more modern times. This explains why traditions and the local culture have been passed down unchanged for generations, more so than in other parts of the region. The CeSCaV, Centro Studi delle Campane in Valnerina (Valnerina Bell Study Center) is in the park in Arrone, where one of the most important traditions –bell ringing – is studied and carried on. The Umbrian method, quite impressive for the eyes, not only for the ears, means the bells are rung from the top of the bell tower, where tunes are rung out directly by moving the bells with their hands. Strolling through the small villages within the park on spring or summer days, you could easily hear music from a squeezebox, tambourine and triangle playing the Saltarello, a folk tune once the main attraction at Umbrian and Marche village fetes. Today it barely resists as folklore in very few places in the region.
Besides offering a historical and educational experience, the park’s nature is worth exploring and ‘living.’ There are many paths and itineraries to follow on foot or on bike, accessible to all. The tourist itineraries are the easiest – they are short and adapted to everyone. There is a quick 45 min hike up to Mount Arrone to enjoy the splendid view of the towns below; a two-and-a-half hour trek will take you from Ferentillo to the charming hamlet of Nicciano; other uphill hikes wind through the park to the Marmore Waterfalls. There are also paths for more expert excursionists looking for adventure; for example, l’Anello del Monte Pennarossa (the Mt Pennarossa Ring), 7 km long that can be covered in four hours; or the 7.4 km hike up 430 meters from Polino to Colle Bertone (Bertone Hill). The park is a must for cyclists because it is included in the ‘Greenway del Nera’, a long ring route of 180 km that criss-crosses the Valnerina from Preci to the Prati di Stroncone (Stroncone meadows). It’s not to be missed for bike and nature lovers. Then there are water sports on the main attraction- the Nera River: kayaking, white water rafting, hydrospeed boats. There is an adventure park and a part of the river where ‘no kill’ fishing is allowed. These activities are in the ‘water park.’ You‘ll leave with nostalgia for this countryside that, despite its severe and rash impression, has welcomed and protected humans for centuries.